News

Nov 13, 2023

THE INS AND OUTS OF BUYING CONSUMER DIRECT

Bikes being sold direct to the rider online is a relatively new thing. It used to be that every “real” mountain bike you saw was purchased through a local bike shop, staffed with experts who could

Bikes being sold direct to the rider online is a relatively new thing. It used to be that every “real” mountain bike you saw was purchased through a local bike shop, staffed with experts who could answer questions on everything from sizing to trail recommendations. The only bikes sold direct were mass-merchant bikes, which were not suitable for real trail riding. Today, more companies sell their bikes direct to consumers than ever and leave the expertise part of the equation for you to figure out. That means if you buy direct, the assembly and maintenance of that complex machine falls squarely on your shoulders. Nevertheless, the notion of buying direct certainly makes sense.

Cutting out the local bike shop as a middleman and getting a bump in component or material spec sounds like an easy choice, and most of the expertise you would glean from the shop can be found with a quick Google search, right? The catch? You still have to perform the work yourself, or at least know when and where to find the help and expertise you need. So, with more companies than ever employing direct-to-consumer methods, you better get ready for delivery of a new bike-buying experience.

There is still plenty to be said in favor of buying your bike at a local retail shop. Supporting local businesses is awesome for your community, but the support they can give you is really invaluable if you are not the do-it-yourself type. If you’re not into becoming a bike mechanic yourself, the local bike shop might still be the way to go. There are plenty of our favorite brands (most of them actually) that you can still buy at a shop and still come with a part of the experience that direct-to-rider bikes may never be able to replicate—the rubbery smell of bike shop expertise.

The days when mountain bikes were so simple that you could consider any LBS (local bike shop) to be a full-service shop are long gone. Mountain bikes are more complex and sophisticated than ever; however, bike and component makers are working hard to make setup easier and to make component-specific knowledge more readily available. The hope is that when a component breaks or a mechanical issue crops up on that bike you bought direct, you might be able to deal with it yourself rather than take it to a shop. In reality, bike makers are expecting you to get familiar with the basics, know how to realize when it’s time to call in an expert and stick to a regular maintenance plan. Otherwise, that shiny new box full of carbon fiber and instant gratification that was delivered by the “Brown Santa” UPS driver is going to have a harsh life.

Riders new to the sport may be shocked to discover there are many different types of mountain bikes. Knowing which one suits your riding style and trails is critical. Buying the right one ensures that you’ll get the most out of the experience. Trust us, there’s nothing worse than being the only rider on the wrong type of equipment. Nobody likes waiting for the know-it-all who bought a cool-looking downhill bike for riding through grassland trails. In addition to finding the right type of mountain bike, you’ll need to know which one will fit your dimensions.

“Mountain bikes are more complex and sophisticated than ever; however, bike and component makers are working hard to make setup easier and to make component- specific knowledge more readily available.”

Once you’ve found the type of bike you’re after, you’ll need to determine the correct frame size. This is a critical step that will impact how comfortable and confident you are as a rider. If you’re experienced, this is likely a relatively easy choice, as most bikes come in T-shirt sizing. One thing to note: new-school geometry can be very different from bikes that are only a year or two old, especially if you’re going from one type of bike to another. Using measurements from old bikes that have fit you well in the past is a good starting place, but it is best to try the new bike (or at least something comparable) for yourself. If you’re between sizes, ask more questions and do more research before hitting the “buy” button. Component choices can be changed later on; frame size cannot.

Riding buddies can be an excellent source of info on what works on your trails. Knowing which bikes are working well for your amigos on local trails will steer you in the right direction.

The bike is the big-ticket item, but if you don’t have things like pedals, a helmet, hydration pack and riding kit already, this must be factored into the purchase price. Beginners who don’t factor these costs into their budgets are easily spotted at the trailhead riding a brand-new shiny bike with plastic cruiser bike pedals and sneakers. That is not to say you can’t have a heck of a good time in your gym clothes on a mountain bike, but proper protection is critical. Proper hydration is important, and proper attire is much more comfortable and fun to ride in.

—Have a basic toolkit that’s more than just a multi-tool and a mini pump. You’ll need at least a dedicated set of Allen wrenches, a floor pump, and a shock pump.

—Out of the box, most direct-to-rider bikes are 99 percent dialed. They have been hand-built at the factory by an expert mechanic and should have tight bolts, as well as derailleurs and brakes adjusted. In theory, you should only have to take the bike out of the box, bolt the handlebar on, and inflate the tires to ride.

—Setting saddle height and cockpit controls in a comfortable position for your dimensions should only require basic Allen wrenches and a few test rides to get right.

—Tire inflation and pressure will be low for shipping, so you’ll need to know the pressure that works for your tires. Inflating them with a floor pump with a gauge is important, because tire pressure is one adjustment that makes a huge difference in ride quality.

—Tubeless conversion will never be done at the factory, at least not that we know of. Many bikes come with the valves, tape, and sometimes even sealant to convert your tires to tubeless, but the bike will still ship with inner tubes installed. If you want to run tubeless tires, you’ll need to set them up yourself or know a shop that can do that for you.

—Suspension setup is sometimes taken care of by the manufacturer. If you’ve given them your rider weight during the buying process, it’s likely they’ve taken the steps to give you a baseline suspension setup. Using a shock pump, check the pressure in the shock and fork to compare to the recommended pressures, usually found in a chart on a sticker on the bike or on the website. If you want to take it a step further, you can go through a proper sag setup, front and rear, to ensure you’re balanced before hitting the trails. Finding a balanced suspension setup will ensure the bike works like the engineers wanted it to.

—Basic gear and brake adjustment skills are not required to set up most new direct-delivered bikes, but it’s possible these components could get knocked out of alignment during shipping. Knowing the basics for fine-tuning these components will prevent a frustrating first ride with rubbing brakes and a popping chain.

—Even the top mechanics in the world will check their handiwork after a first ride or two to make sure bolts haven’t worked their way loose. The first few times out, pay particular attention to noises and vibrations you feel, as they may be signs of mis-adjusted or loosened threads.

—Suspension adjustment and bracketing should be at the top of your list for the first few rides. Once you’ve landed on a setting that feels close to what you like, experiment with things like rebound adjustments and slightly higher or lower air pressures. By doing this, you will constantly work towards your ideal suspension setup for your terrain and riding style.

—Cable “stretch” adjustments will be needed after a couple rides to keep shifting crisp. These are called “cable-stretch” adjustments because it makes sense that a braided cable would stretch out a little (or the housing would compress a little) and come out of adjustment. Don’t fret if your bike gets shifting issues after only a ride or two. Same thing if your dropper cable loosens up a tad. These issues are easy to correct and shouldn’t come back.

—Feel for knocking bearings as you ride. If you notice the steering seems sloppy or there’s noise coming from the front end, you may have loose headset bearings. Being able to spot issues like this and stop riding before you cause damage to expensive components is important when the bike is new and breaking in.

—Keep your bike clean, but don’t go overboard washing it with a hose. Our simplest cleaning kit includes some brushes, soapy water and a bucket. This should be all you need to keep the bulk of dust and dirt out of the drivetrain and other problem areas. Be sure not to pressure-wash anything that could force water into places it shouldn’t be, like bearings or suspension components. And never put your bike away wet.

—New bikes come with a lubricated chain. You won’t need to refresh this for a least a ride or two, and maybe even longer.

—Real brake and shifting adjustments will need to happen after some ride time. Expect in the first few weeks to have to fine-tune some, if not most, of these components.

—If you are using tubeless tires and sealant, the liquid will likely evaporate in the first four to six weeks, even if you never get a flat tire. You will need to replenish the sealant supply in the tires to keep them working properly; otherwise, you risk a true flat with even the smallest thorn puncture in the tire.

—Inspect brake pads, especially if you do a lot of descending or are a heavier rider. These components are designed to wear out, and the amount of time it takes to wear them down varies tremendously, depending on your riding style and conditions.

—Every bike develops creaks. It doesn’t matter what your bike says on the downtube or the price tag; every bike will turn from a precisely tuned machine into a creaky pile of you know what. Don’t believe us? Just do a Google search for “creaky new bike” and see what comes up. Riders who purchased at a local shop have a major advantage here. Most of the time, the local bike mechanic has diagnosed several other creaks on the same component or even bike model. There is value in that expertise, and you will have to acquire or pay for it when you decide to buy direct. Being able to diagnose mechanical problems from sound is a skill that’s worth learning.

“It doesn’t seem like bike companies are overly interested in revivingthe old-school dirty-window bike-shop vibes any time soon.”

—Inspect bearings/bolts/suspension pivots for unusual wear. This may require special tools, as things like bottom brackets require cup tools.

—Inspect suspension components/change lubrication oil in the fork and shock. These procedures can be DIY but are more advanced than basic maintenance.

—Know how to spot a warranty issue, and do it before a year is up. The window between when you buy the bike and the day the warranty expires is valuable. If there’s something giving you issues, don’t put off contacting the company for long.

—Check chain/chainrings for wear. Most riders will get about a season out of a chain and a couple seasons out of the rest of their drivetrain. Replacing the chain before it wears out will prevent the rest of the parts from wearing prematurely. Six months is a good time to check for most riders.

—Inspect cables and housing for wear. Worn housing (outer liner) will look rubbed thin, kinked or frayed inside the ferrules. Worn shifter cables (inner cable) are kinked or frayed. If they develop any of these symptoms, you should replace them.

—Brake bleed front and rear if either feels off. Hydraulic brakes that use DOT fluid can degrade rather quickly and will work better if they’re bled a couple times a year. Brakes that use mineral oil can be used longer without bleeding, although the fluid levels will change as the pads wear down. It’s best to just count on bleeding a couple times a season.

—Replace brake pads if worn below 2mm of pad thickness or anywhere near the backing plate.

—Send suspension off for a factory rebuild. This is a more thorough version of the lubrication oil service you should have done earlier in the year. If you’ve put a full season of use on your suspension, it’s time to have all the fluids and gases changed, including those deep in the damper that can’t be serviced anywhere but the factory or a suspension rebuild specialist.

—Replace the chain if you’re anywhere near a full season of use. The longevity benefits to the rest of your drivetrain are worth it.

—Replace worn housing, even if your shifting still feels pretty good. You’ll be surprised how good a new cable feels.

—Replace brake pads/inspect rotors, especially if you’ve changed pads. Most rotors should be able to handle two to three sets of pads, depending on the compound you’re using, but if your brakes feel worse for wear no matter how much you adjust or bleed them, fresh pads with fresh rotors will make them feel good as new.

Knowing when to overhaul your fork used to be super simple. When the seals started leaking, you swapped them out and then had a fork that felt as good as new! These days, though, suspension components are much more sophisticated and precise, and if you wait for signs of wear to appear before you perform preventative services, you will wear the super-smooth coatings inside and wreck your fork’s ability to smoothly seal air and oil. Maintenance is recommended for most suspension components after only 50 hours of use, which for serious riders could mean a matter of weeks from the purchase date.

Before the internet, bike shops would need to call manufacturers for even the smallest bits of information, and it was a nightmare. We’re talking about 45 minutes on hold just to get somebody at the factory on the phone, and then however long it would take for them to page through the oil-stained owner’s manual on their desk. These days, it has never been easier to find the right information, as well as some of the absolute worst advice you will ever see.

Most component manufacturers have content on their websites or how-to videos on YouTube that can teach you how to perform the service on your own. Most do a nice job breaking routine services down into step-by-step procedures that are meant to educate you and eventually save you some trips to the bike shop; however, always consider the source when looking for advice online. If there is only one sketchy-looking video on how to rebuild your malfunctioning dropper post and nothing available from the factory on that specific procedure, it’s probably worth the fee to have the professionals do the work.

It doesn’t seem like bike companies are overly interested in reviving the old-school dirty-window bike-shop vibes any time soon. Instead, they’re investing heavily in their websites and other infrastructure to make buying bikes direct possible. We’ve seen prototype “buy now” buttons inexplicably appear and disappear from companies’ websites, signaling that an across-the-board shift for even the staunchest dealer-only brands might be in the works. Companies such as Trek, Canyon and YT are even using some clever inside-the-box thinking to streamline the process to make buying your new bike as easy as ordering a pizza.